Lara and the Barracuda

Photos:
1. The Captain navigating.
2. The First Mate blogging.
3. A beautiful day on the water.
4. A Coast Guard RHIB on its way to rescue some OTHER poor fool.
5. A large sailing cruise ship.
6. Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous at Crown Bay Marina (note the helicopter on the back deck).
7-13. Photos of the Island Bear.

Somewhere, Lara heard that a barracuda might attack a human who is wearing a watch or other flashy jewelry in the water (although I am not sure this has ever been documented). When we went snorkeling today, she was wearing her watch and forgot her gloves (which normally cover the watch). Once she spotted a barracuda, she started getting increasingly nervous. It didn’t help matters when I excitedly pointed out an even bigger barracuda about 20’ away.

I figured out that she was concerned after watching her spin in place, frantically looking behind her, for the fourth time. At first, I assumed she had spotted something interesting so I spun around a few times as well, vainly looking for whatever it was that had caught her eye. Pretty soon we were both just spinning around in the water and scaring all the fish. After not seeing anything, I finally asked her what she was doing. When she told me that she was looking for barracuda that might be stalking her watch….well….I managed to keep a straight face and not laugh (no easy task!).

After watching her try to swim with her left arm out of the water, I tried to tell her that she was absolutely safe and showed her the shiny watch I was also wearing. This didn’t calm her down at all. She finally told me that she was just too freaked out to continue and took off her watch and forced me to tie it to the string on my swim trunks. [Insert your own joke here.]

I suppose I didn't help matters at all when I pointed out that her scuba gloves were the exact same color as the lures I have been using to catch the barracuda...

The rest of our day was pretty low key. We went to the Crown Bay Marina to do laundry, check email, get ice, re-fuel the boat and dinghy, and fill the fresh water tanks. After that, we sailed to Buck Island (in the Capella Islands off St. Thomas). The winds were pretty light so we actually motor sailed (using the motor to “help” the sails).

There were a lot of boats at Buck Island with snorkelers from the five (!) cruise ships docked in St. Thomas. There was even a submarine on hand for those who didn’t want to get wet. The water visibility was great and the variety of fish and coral was delightful. We got to swim with four turtles and a couple of stingrays. Also some barracuda (!). There were a lot of mooring balls but they all had signs saying “No Overnight Use” so we just anchored in the middle of it all once the snorkelers left. The swells were a bit rocky and rolly but we were well sheltered from the wind and current with good holding for the anchor so it wasn’t too bad.

The following morning we were up early (this happens when you go to bed at 8pm) and snorkeled before the tourist boats arrived. The visibility was amazing – 50+’. We found the two barracuda again (3’ and 4’ approximately). Both continued to be a little too interested in us – this time Lara just “hid” behind me – keeping me between her and them. Jim swam down deep and near them and they did not budge!

A few moments later we found a 5’ nurse shark. They look like a classic shark except they have a larger head and lifeless eyes. Kind of spooky but we were mesmerized by it and spent a while watching it (from about 10 feet away). In order to find these things we have to free dive 25’ or so and look under the ledges. In this manner, we also found a huge lobster! He was wedged carefully in with a bunch of the spiked sea urchins so once again, we were foiled in our attempt to bag our own dinner.

The turtles were also out and we both swam alongside them, which was really cool. After telling me that it was “against the law to harass marine life”, Lara caught up with the turtle and ran her hand along this shell. I suppose this is not quite the “riding the turtle” that I had in mind…

After leaving Buck Island, we cleared out of the USVI and into the BVI through customs. As usual, we had a tough time with the boat name. They keep asking if it’s Island “Beer” or Island “Bare” (both are occasionally accurate).

Once cleared into British waters, we sailed to Norman Island and anchored in the Bight (a large bay with two LOUD party bars. At least the winds and waves were calm!

Once we woke up, the Captain declared a fishing day and we spent several hours trolling offshore in waters up to 4000’ deep. Other than one large barracuda, the fish did not cooperate. After getting thoroughly bored, we went to Cooper Island and anchored for lunch and some spectacular snorkeling. We also got to assist a boat with 2 women and 2 young boys who had some “difficulty” with the whole mooring ball concept. After watching for a while it just became too painful and Lara and I motored over to help.

Once we were done with lunch, we sailed over to the Sunsail base to have some maintenance done on the boat (front water tank, VHF radio, winch handle, dinghy, etc.) and to change out the linens in preparation for the arrival of Emily and MJ. The problem with the dinghy was that it leaked water, fuel and air. They ended up just giving us a new (and I mean NEW) dinghy. We are so excited! No more fuel stains, etc. on our clothes!

Lara also met up with 2 physicians who were returning their boat and got all of their extra food, charcoal, cleaning products, etc., as well as a diagnosis and treatment plan for a fungus on her toe.

Jim also talked with the dockmaster about fishing and got some tips. The biggest tip is that Kingfish are actually good to eat. Considering the number that we have caught and released, this was a little disappointing. He also gave us some recipes so Jim is once more on the warpath for fish armed with the “Can’t Fail” fishing lure (another “investment” at the tackle shop!).

The Boat

We were asked to give a “tour” of the boat, ie: show some pictures of this 36’ sailboat.

The cockpit has benches on both sides and the helm. The electronics are simple: a depth gauge, speed indicator (terrible inaccurate), compass and an autopilot. These are all mounted on the podium to which the wheel is located.

There is a ladder that leads down (five steps) into the salon.

Looking toward the bow of the boat:

On one side, there is a wooden dining table and semicircle bench (this converts into a bed). On the other side is a bench where the navigation table is located (it is also wooden). Above the navigation table is the electronics panel. There are switches to turn on or off the various systems (refrigerator, radios, water/bilge pumps, lights etc…). There is also a fixed mounted GPS system (how it helps when you have to be up top to drive and it is down below, I am not sure?).

In the bow of the boat is the “V Berth” stateroom. It is shaped like a “V”. This is supposed to sleep two – uncomfortably.

Looking toward the stern of the boat (at the base of the ladder):

On the starboard side and tucked back under the cockpit is the largest stateroom. You have to crawl to get in this area. On the port side is the bathroom. This bathroom has a head that also doubles as a shower. A bench unfolds over the commode for the shower bench. There is a sink and mirror. The mirror is set up for folks who are about 4’ tall. It is probably good that I have not seen myself in a mirror for over a month!

In most nooks and crevices there is storage. Under the benches, behind the doors, above the benches, beyond and behind the commode etc… You have to really want to get stuff to work that hard to uncover it. I have broken more than one fingernail in the effort.

There are all kinds of lines (ropes), halyards, sheets, sails etc… on the top and front of the boat as well as hatches so there is not a lot of room to “layout” without being in the way of sailing efforts.

There really isn’t a lot of spare space anywhere and maneuvering around each other is occasionally a chore. We are getting pretty good at not bumping into each other TOO much but adding two more adult sized people to this mix ought to be interesting. Nonetheless, we are very excited to have the girls joining us.