Hurray! We have two Dungeness crabs this morning. We popped them into a large boiling pot and cooked them up. Getting all of the meat extracted was quite a bit of work. We shall be rewarded with Crab Bisque, Crab Cakes, Crab Supreme, Crab Gumbo, Crab Kabobs, Crabs Au gratin, Crab Flambé...
From our anchorage recommendations map/chart book, “If it’s wilderness you seek, you can find it in the northern B.C. Coast. Be prepared to be self reliant. Expect it to be a little rough. Bring Cash and forget about ATMs. Cell coverage is gone after Port Hardy. Most vessel insurance won’t cover these territories. Carry two anchors and make sure they are big, strong and ready to deploy. Water is available, some it may be tinged dark from cedar bark tannin. Cabin heat is essential. Shorelines are steep and rocky. The forest is dense and options for walks and hikes will be limited. Fuel may be available only every 80 miles.”This afternoon, two humpback whales surfaced just in front of us, such that Jim cut the engine and we glided forward right into them. This time we got a great movie! Here are the photos (right in front of the boat!):
Near the village of Klemtu (population 300) we were hailed by a disabled sailboat – the 40’ W.H. Starck. Her owners had bent the prop shaft when the entire engine shook loose from its bolts. Bummer. They were on their way north where they were outfitting the boat with new sails. They were really stuck. We agreed to tow them to the nearest town which is Shearwater Marina (8 hours south). Jim was delighted to be of assistance and to see how Antipodes performed under a load. Since neither of us have experience in towing, we used a few trusty knots in two study looking lines, hooked them up to our stern cleats, attached them to their bow cleats and took off (careful not to exceed 6 knots). The crew consisted of a guy and gal (about mid 30s). We never got their names and were disappointed to not have the time to join them for dinner.
It was a beautiful day. Clear Sky’s and no rain. Water temperature has risen to 58.5 º F.
Tonight we had Crab Bisque followed by Crab Cakes with a Pickled Pepper Tarter Sauce and two beers - a memorable meal.
Thursday July 17th, Cowpuccinos Prince Rupert
We ducked into Cowpuccinos (sounds like Al Pacino) Coffee shop, with great MocheCoffee, free Internet service in an earthy setting. I could sit here all day (unfortunately apparently Jim cannot – erg...)
We met Pat and Bruce at Cowpuccinos. Like us, that they have been following Bumfuzzle (http://www.bumfuzzle.com/) for a few years. Pat and Bruce recently sold everything and are traveling via camper van. See their web site at: http://perdidoyalegre.blogspot.com/. Along with some free medical counsel (Patricia is a Dermatology PA) we learned more about Prince Rupert whose population is more than half “First Nations” (I think this is their equivalent of Native American)
When Pat and Bruce were here in PR 5 years ago the town seemed practically deserted: no leisurely coffee shops, no tourist shops or nice eateries. In 2004 a dock was built for cruise ships and has revitalized the town. She calls the “downtown proper; alive and well….at least for the summer”.
They spoke with a couple of First Nation locals and they said a Superport was built to regain jobs from a local mill closing but did not produce the number of jobs expected. Tourism seems to be the main source of income for the town”. She also stated that “she asked about totem pole making and was told they are only made if commissioned by someone. It is an extensive undertaking and one pole can take eight months. The cost: $1000/foot”.
They were off (by Ferry Boat) to the Queen Charlotte Islands. These islands are known for their Native American ruins. They are only accessible by boat or plane and in the winter they are not very hospitable. From our anchorage book, “In the early 1980’s herring prices rose so high that fisherman in the Queen Charlotte islands refused to take checks and fish buyers had to travel out to the fishing grounds in float planes with briefcases full of cash hand cuffed to their wrists.”
We arrived at 9pm last night to a deserted anchorage. It was stunningly beautiful. Jim and I had drinks on the back deck and just marveled in the quiet beauty. We could hear just the various birds calling and the occasional lapping of the water on the boat. Here is our view (north and south):
OK. So here is the truth about what Lara is thinking each night as we anchor:
Scenario One: We get to an anchorage and there is no one there. Lara thinks, “Oh No. Everyone else knows that this is a flawed anchorage. We are the only dummies here. Something terrible will happen. Surely calamity will befall us tonight”.
Scenario Two: We get to an anchorage and shortly after we arrive, another single boat quietly slips in. Lara thinks, “Oh No. I saw the movie Cape Fear. These people followed us here. Surely tragedy will befall us tonight”.
Scenario Three: We get to an anchorage and there are several boats already here. Lara thinks, “Oh No. We are getting the last (bad) spot in this anchorage. We will drag anchor, run aground and puncture a hole in the side of our boat. Surely disaster will befall us tonight.
What Jim is thinking, “That was some great driving/navigating/anchoring. Surely I will get lucky tonight”.
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